The seat of government, by the way, is in Wiesbaden – a town whose belle époque past has a moderating effect on the coarseness of modernity. From time to time the town suffers under the mania of change produced by various kinds of innovators. This mobilizes the traditionalists who have to dig their weapons out of the closet – verbal weapons of course.

Wiesbaden has the charm of a seemingly ageless lady, a bit scatty, but with a special self-assurance that bears witness to an eventful past. Yes, we’ve arrived on the Rhine. Hesse can pride itself in having a piece of this majestic river.

And this includes the vineyards adorning its banks that produce wines valiantly defended by the inhabitants against the arrogance of the French and Italian wine fans. Mind you, I’m biased, as my mother’s side of the family have been winegrowers in Rhine-Hesse for centuries. However, the people in the area cultivate a long tradition of marrying into France, irrespective of any wars!